The mis-information age is where we are and I am old enough to have seen it come. Of course to the other gurus reading this later, bring on the music, any of your 0w engines at 400-600k miles yet no re-builds, my 20w-50 engines are. I see most often the average to use is 10w-30 works great in 99% of most and then onto 10w-40 and if still burning oil 20w-50. I have worked in this field and on the testing side of this field, trust me, unless your on the north or south pole with 20+ degrees below 0, then 5w to 20w first number and 10 to 50 last number on oil bottle is fine to use, the first sign you need to step it up to the next number is oil consumption. I want them to last, not burn up faster because the money gobblers want to turn a good engine into disposable engine for their own profit. In fact I use 20w-50 castrol oil in my 4cyl engines, the smallest engine being a 1.3l, none of mine loose oil or have any engine problems either. I do not care if the owners manual says to use it, and its a tiny 4cyl engine. ![]() I will be up-front I would only if the oil lever was very low on my dipstick and the only oil on the shelf was a 0w-anything oil would I ever use a 0w oil. Again many will argue this point but even you need 20w-50 oil and high mileage formula to stop oil consumption is perfectly fine on your engine and will not hurt anything in-fact help it as the constant oil consumption on the piston ring set will ruin them far faster and actually cause you to need to rebuild your engine sooner than later, as this blow-by ruins the rings/seal set, not to mention that this also ruins your cat & O2 sensors and coats then entire exhaust system in unburned oil and extra expense down the road. But I have said it before and will repeat myself these new oil recommendation of less than 5w-20 is too thin to use and is the cause of oil consumption, many will argue with me on this, but I have 35 years of mechanics under my belt and many a testing done to know what I am saying, If your engine is fine, otherwise running good, step up the oil weight your consumption will disappear if your loosing oil from it slipping by the piston rings & oil seal into the combustion chamber which is oil consumption. no fail and you just paid $1900 for nothing. Plus the dealer is testing most time with a higher weight oil instead of the full synthetic 0 weight the manual recommends, So they are cheating the test anyways, and yet watching the oil level instead of testing exhaust and also filling the crankcase too full so their test when done your at the correct level, yea-hoo. If that was the case they would not have any fail or to enroll. ![]() The oil consumption test (real test) is too test the oils present in the exhaust gases, so it just needs to run, its not a test that watches the oil level drop but yet what they do or trick you with.
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